This trip report details my 4-night camping and hiking adventure in Big Bend this past April. It was my third visit to the park and also my first solo trip. My intention for this trip was to have an experience to suit my photographic interests. I hiked most areas twice: once in the afternoon/evening and then again the following morning. This would set me up to catch the best light possible and to experience areas in two different lighting conditions.

I certainly found amazing photographic opportunities in terms of both scenery and lighting. It was quite exhausiting to keep the schedule that I did, but hopefully the reward is in my photos. Although my goal was all about photography, I also experienced many other great things on this trip. Four nights in the desert changes your inner being and soul, in a good way.

Day 1 Sunday (arrive at HQ at 5:30 pm): drive south on the west side of park, misc. overlooks, Santa Elena Canyon hike
- Night 1: Terlingua Abajo #4 backcountry campsite

Day 2 Monday: Santa Elena hike, hike to Red Buffalo, explore La Noria, Ernst Tinaja hike
- Night 2: La Noria #2 backcountry campsite

Day 3 Tuesday: explore La Noria more, Ernst Tinaja hike, Boquillas Canyon hike, Pine Canyon hike (only 1/3)
- Night 3: Pine Canyon #4 backcountry campsite

Day 4 Wednesday: Pine Canyon hike, Dog Canyon hike
- Night 4: Nine Point Draw #1 backcountry campsite

Day 5 Thursday: No serious hike, felt sick- packed up and left by 10am

Entering the Park

View from Tornillo Creek

My trip to Big Bend National Park started from Houston on Friday, April 14. We (my wife, son, and I) planned to spend Easter weekend in Del Rio with my wife's family, and I used that Easter trip as a "starter" for my Big Bend trip. I stayed in Del Rio that weekend, and then left for Big Bend on Sunday just after the big holiday lunch.

The drive out to Big Bend from Del Rio was nice. I usually enjoy it because there's little or no traffic and the terrain starts to get more desert-like and interesting. I planned my drive so that I'd arrive at Panther Junction HQ sometime around 5:30pm, and I'd have enough time to properly check in and reserve my campsites.

I made good time. I slowed for a few snapshots of dust devils off in the distance, churning angrily at the ground. There was a rather large dust devil on the desert floor below Santiago Peak, but it didn't last long and blew itself out as I watched. I had to stop at the BBNP entrance sign this time because I'd not done it on my previous two trips. I guess every visitor to Big Bend has to do this once :-)

The drive going south from Persimmon Gap was nice, and it got me excited and in the mood for exploring the desert. Well, I was quite excited before I got there, but actually being there made me feel like a kid again. I stopped at the Tornillo creek bridge for a photo- I just couldn't drive any more without taking advantage of the great light, deep blue sky, and high clouds.

I booked all the campsites I wanted at PJ without problem (TA4, LN2, PC4, and NP1), and then I was off for a proper adventure.

Mule Ears Peaks

Cerro Castellan

THE Shot at CC

Note:
Images with borders are part
of the Main Photo Gallery

I drove south on Ross Maxwell that late afternoon and took my time to enjoy the sights. I stopped at Sotol Vista, Mule Ears Peaks, and at Cerro Castellan. I would eventually arrive at Santa Elena Canyon for a hike just before the sun set at 8:20pm.

The weather was warm and dry, and the sky was mostly clear with some high cirrus clouds. I felt a little anxious knowing that the sunset later on might be spectacular with those sort of clouds. Or it could be a dud just as well. It's a fun game of chance, and it would turn out well for that evening.

My first stop (Sotol Vista) was awesome. It was still, quiet, hot (but dry- low humidity), and beautiful. I could see the notch of Santa Elena Canyon off in the distance and close to the horizon. The high view over the western side of the park was impressive. I was completely alone up there and enjoyed the time by myself. After taking in the sights, baking in the dry heat, and snapping several shots, I felt relaxed and at ease.

I then moved on to the overlook near Mule Ears Peaks. The drive was slow-going as I took my time to enjoy the scenery. I didn't see any other traffic, so I comfortable in puttering my way along. The road dives and curves a great deal going south from Sotol Vista.
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The parking lot at Mule Ears Viewpoint was deserted just like Sotol Vista had been. I ventured down an unmarked trail towards the peaks to gain a better photo opportunity. It was kind of fun coasting through the hot desert in my sandals. The warm, dry heat felt good on my face and arms, and again I felt at ease and relaxed. I set up my tripod again and started to work.

The desert flora here is much like it is all over the park. It's sparsely filled with cactus, ocotillo, lechuguilla, and other desert plants. They are suited for hot, dry weather, and each has some sort of defense like sharp thorns or spikes. The plants are anchored well in the hard, solid ground composed of pebbles, gravel, and some larger rocks. You get a feel that the land is very robust and constant, and that it's capable of enduring the harshest conditions.

The twin peaks were visible, but at some distance. I believe they are about a mile from the viewpoint. I didn't hike in more than 50 yards or so, just far enough to escape the man-made objects in the parking lot.
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Driving south again, I came across the unusual white and red landscape near Cerro Castellan. I had seen this area before in photos, and I wanted to take some shots of the contrasting rocks. I passed up a nice looking area still lit by the late afternoon sun, then found a pull-off with an exhibit. I turned around there, drove back (north) about 1/4 mile, and then stopped alongside the road. This time I put my shoes on and planned to do more extensive exploring.

With my camera and tripod in tow, I explored an area on the east side of the road below the peak. I ventured behind some "dunes" of white rock and found THE shot- a lonely ocotillo next to a line of red rocks. The unique geometry, colors, and lighting made for an interesting scene.

That's what I came to Big Bend for, or at least that's what I thought at the time. The trip plan had been focused on getting nice photos and spending quality time with my camera. I'll get to the final trip summary later on. I'll just say that I experienced much more in BBNP than just great photo opportunities.

I spent a little while taking photos in that area and then realized it was getting late. I hopped in the truck and drove down to Santa Elena Canyon next.

Sunset at Terlingua Creek 1

Sunset at Terlingua Creek 2

Note:
Images with borders are part
of the Main Photo Gallery

I hit the trail going into Santa Elena Canyon with a brisk walk. Several other cars were parked there so I wasn't alone this time. The sun had not set yet, but daylight was quickly coming to an end for that day.

After meandering across the wide and flat Terlingua Creek, I climbed up the sandy bank on the opposite side and proceeded through the green tunnels of trees and cane. It was still, quiet, and beautiful. The massive rock cliffs of Santa Elena would appear through openings in the trees as I hiked along. I began to appreciate their giant scale as the trees flew past, but the views of the cliffs didn't change much in perspective.

As I walked along, I would feel refreshed by cool, moist breezes off the water. Then I'd be hit with hot, dry air off the rocks. Even down in the trees on the bank I'd experience this mix of contrasting air. It felt great.

I reached the switchbacks and began a quick ascent into the mouth of the canyon. I was glad to be on solid ground and done with inefficient walking in the loose sand. This was my first visit to Santa Elena, and I wasn't sure what the trail was like. Just when I was beginning to think the trail led all the way up into Mesa de Anguilla, it leveled off :-)

I stopped, turned, and was greeted by a spectacular view. The whole country was bathed in the warm light of the late afternoon sun. I could see the Chisos Mountains on the horizon and the Rio Grande below me making its gentle turn towards the southeast. The massive shadow of the cliffs crawled slowly eastward as the sun dropped in the sky.

I descended down the trail to river-level again and found a low rock jutting out into the wide waters of the Rio Grande. I perched on the rock and set up my tripod and camera. The Chisos on the horizon reflected off the water and were framed nicely by the canyon walls. I watched them as the sun dipped lower and the light grew into shades of orange and purple.

A couple, who had been down the trail, emerged from the foliage alongside the bank. They commented something about the canyon being a photographer's paradise and then stopped to take a photo. I greeted them, smiled, and then went back to my viewfinder.
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Nearly the whole canyon was in shadows then, and I decided to quickly hike back to that nice spot I passed on Terlingua Creek with the low water levels. I figured the flat pools of water would make for nice reflections should the clouds light up brilliantly after sunset.

I think my judgment paid off. By the time I reached the creek again, the sun had set and the clouds were beginning to glow nicely all around in the sky. I picked up colored reflections off the water in the creek, just as I'd wished. First the clouds were a brilliant orange, then orange-pinkish, then pinkish-magenta-red, and finally the lights went out.

I'd only been in the park for a few hours and had witnessed and experienced some awesome sights. I felt immensely happy for different reasons. I was finally getting time off work and time to enjoy my hobby- photography. I was in Big Bend again, a place that I dreamed about often (and still do :-) Although I missed my family and my usual hiking/camping companions, it felt really good to be on my own, doing things at my own pace, and deciding my own course of action. I'd just endured several highly stressed out months at work and was in desperate need of a break.
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After the show was over, I headed on to my reserved campsite. I had planned to make camp in the dark because I knew I'd be at Santa Elena until 20 to 30 minutes after sunset. This plan worked out just fine, except for the excessive complaining from my empty stomach. It was around 8:45pm when I left the parking lot.

I rolled out to the Terlingua Abajo sites on a flat yet heavily wash-boarded backcountry road. I attempted the two popular philosophies of washboard-road driving: 1) take it real slow, or 2) drive so fast that you skim the tops of the bumps. Neither worked out to my liking so I settled with #1 and averaged less than 10 mph. (So what were the top speeds for #2 you ask? :-) I dare not say. It's enough to make the change jump out of the cupholders ;-)

In the Tent

That was the only night I had company at a backcountry campsite. Someone was in the #2 site, and I'd reserved the #4 site. I didn't bother them because it was after dark and they were already in their tent. And I was seriously in need of food at that point. My stomach had left it's normal position inside my body and was eating its neighboring organs.

Not much action here. There was a loud owl hooting in the distance. I think it hooted just about all night. I woke up when the moon rose (11pm or so) and took some long exposures of the campsite. I managed to get broken sleep until about 6am when the coyote alarm clock went off. I'm not afraid of coyotes and I know they won't bother me, but their yapping will certainly wake a person up!

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